![]() Using a new diamond coring bit (for large holes) or spade bit (for small holes) with a diamond tip made for glass drilling will give the best results. Drilling from both sides can ensure a cleaner finish if the hole will be visible after installation. If possible, drill holes before installing tile. Always be sure to smooth the cut edges manually with a diamond hand pad or ceramic dressing stone. In most cases, this will allow the use of a score and snap cutter and avoid small cracks that can happen at the angle. To cut angles without a wet saw or grinder, drill a small hole at the apex of the angle prior to cutting. Do not use turbo or other notched blades designed for use with porcelain or ceramic as the teeth can cause a coarse cut, resulting in a heavily chipped edge. In some cases it may be possible to use a wet-saw with a new, continuous rim diamond blade specifically designed for cutting glass. Wetting the diamond wheel with oil before cutting will produce the smoothest cuts. Use a glasscutter (score and snap) with a new diamond wheel for best results when cutting our glass tiles. Allow thin-set mortar to dry completely for a minimum of 72 hours prior to grouting or otherwise interfering with the fresh installation. All setting material, even rapidest mortars need a longer time to cure. Glass tiles are non-porous: the moisture in the setting materials cannot migrate through the glass and must evaporate slowly through the joints. Tiles larger than 3x3 should be back-buttered with a thin continuous layer of the thin set applied with the flat side of the trowel. Apply as much adhesive as can be covered within 10-15 minutes.ģ/16" or 1/4" square notch trowel should be used when installing our glass material and ridges should be smoothed down with the flat side of the trowel prior to fixing the tiles in the mortar bed.To avoid affecting the color of the tile, white thinset such as Bostik Glass-Mate is strongly recommended for all installations.Plywood should be avoided, since the wood will warp with the added moisture and it will also be less waterproof, even after tiling. Cement board, concrete or drywall is best, as these surfaces can handle the moisture of the tiling process. Before you start tiling, make sure that whatever surface the tiles are being installed to will be strong and structurally sound.*Always use appropriate personal protective safety equipment when handling, drilling, cutting or grinding glass tile such as (but not limited to) eye, ear and hand protection. This is not a factory defect or deficiency of any kind in the material and should be expected by the end consumer. Due to the nature of the material and production process it may be possible to see through the clear glass on certain angles which can appear as a lighter line along the edges of the glass. This will also help you choose which pieces go where, which is especially helpful with tiles that have a lot of variation. We always recommend dry-fitting your pattern first to think about your cuts in advance and to make sure you like the pattern.Please follow best practice instructions found in the Tile Council of North America (TCNA) 09300 Handbook for specific installation types. These instructions are meant to be a guide for most installations, under normal conditions.All material is sorted according to ANSI standard A137 size tolerances and packaging is clearly marked with caliber and shade/tone/dye-lot. The pigments and glass are made from natural minerals and as such the firing process will cause slight variations in shades and size. The multi-layered protective coating is fired with the tile and ensures that the thin-set mortars will not be visible after installation. The back of the glass tile is coated with the desired pigment(s) and a white protective coating visible from the back of the tile. This material is made of clear and transparent glass. Please refer to and install our products to the standards set by the TCNA.
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